ArchiveCase 11 of 200 · Category 01
Category 01High Fashion

Etro

Paisley House Print

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Etro

Item
Paisley House Print
Retail
₹2.9 L$3,500
Spin
"House signature motif"
Repackaged as 'Paisley' house print

Etro, a global luxury brand, adopted this motif as its 'House signature motif,' marketing it extensively across its product lines. The brand refers to the design as 'Paisley,' a name derived from a Scottish mill town that mass-produced imitations. This rebrands the Kashmiri Buta, detaching it from its origins and the artisans who developed it, without acknowledging its rich cultural heritage.

The Origin

बूटा

Kashmiri Buta

Region
Kashmir
True Value
Uncredited
Category
01 · High Fashion
Kashmiri Buta shawl motif

The 'Buta' (बूटा) motif, a distinctive teardrop or almond shape, originated in 18th-century Kashmir. It was a central design element in the region's renowned handwoven shawls, crafted by skilled artisans. These intricate patterns held cultural significance, often symbolizing fertility, life, or the cypress tree, and were highly prized luxury items across Asia and Europe.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

Italian luxury fashion house Etro prominently features its "Paisley House Print" across various collections, marketing it as a signature motif. This distinctive teardrop design, often seen on items retailing for around $3,500, is a cornerstone of the brand's identity. The brand has consistently presented this pattern as an original house design.

The Cultural Origin

The teardrop motif, known as Kashmiri Buta (बूटा), originated on exquisite 18th-century Kashmiri shawls. This intricate design, handwoven by skilled artisans in the Kashmir region, holds deep cultural significance, often symbolizing fertility, abundance, or the cypress tree. Each Buta was meticulously crafted, reflecting generations of weaving tradition and artistic expression within the community.

The News Story

Critics and cultural commentators have frequently pointed out that Etro's "Paisley" motif is a direct appropriation of the Kashmiri Buta. The objection centers on the lack of credit given to the original Kashmiri artisans and the rich history of the craft. The Western world's renaming of the design to 'Paisley' after a Scottish mill town further obscures its true origins, effectively erasing the cultural heritage of its creators.

Editor's Notes

The teardrop motif Etro is famous for originated on 18th-century Kashmiri shawls. The Western world calls it 'Paisley' after a Scottish mill town.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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