ArchiveCase 87 of 200 · Category 05
Category 05Culinary Rebranding

Vegan brands (Upton's / Jackfruit Co.)

"Vegan Pulled Meat"

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Vegan brands (Upton's / Jackfruit Co.)

Item
"Vegan Pulled Meat"
Retail
₹664$8.00
Spin
"Plant-based meat alternative"
Repackaged as 'vegan pulled meat'

Vegan brands like Upton's and Jackfruit Co. have introduced 'vegan pulled meat' products, utilizing jackfruit as a plant-based alternative. These products are marketed globally, often priced significantly higher than the raw fruit's value in its regions of origin. The marketing emphasizes its novelty as a meat substitute, largely overlooking the rich, long-standing culinary heritage of jackfruit in South Asian cuisine where it has been a 'meat-like' ingredient for generations.

The Origin

कटहल

Kathal (Jackfruit)

True Value
₹60/kg$0.72/kg
Category
05 · Culinary Rebranding
South Asian Kathal cuisine

Kathal, or unripe jackfruit, has been a staple in South Asian cooking for centuries, particularly valued for its fibrous texture that mimics meat. Grandmothers and home cooks across the region skillfully prepare it into hearty curries and stews, offering a nutritious and flavorful dish deeply embedded in local culinary traditions. This versatile fruit is a testament to the ingenious use of local produce in traditional South Asian kitchens.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

Vegan brands like Upton's Naturals and The Jackfruit Company introduced "vegan pulled meat" products to Western markets, retailing for approximately $8. These products, marketed as plant-based meat alternatives, feature jackfruit as their primary ingredient, leveraging its unique texture to mimic shredded meat. The innovation was presented as a novel culinary discovery for health-conscious consumers.

The Cultural Origin

For centuries, unripe jackfruit, known as 'kathal' in South Asia, has been a staple in regional cuisines. Grandmothers across the subcontinent have traditionally prepared it as a meat-textured curry, valued for its versatility and ability to absorb spices. This culinary tradition is deeply embedded in the everyday cooking practices of numerous households, offering a rich, hearty, and flavorful vegetarian option that predates modern vegan trends.

The News Story

The marketing of jackfruit as a new 'vegan pulled meat' by Western brands sparked discussions among South Asian communities and food writers. Critics pointed out the lack of acknowledgment for the fruit's long-standing culinary history and cultural significance in South Asia. The framing of jackfruit as a novel ingredient for plant-based diets was seen as an appropriation, erasing centuries of traditional knowledge and culinary innovation from its origin.

Editor's Notes

South Asian grandmothers have cooked unripe jackfruit as a meat-textured curry for centuries.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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