Tory Burch
"Reversed" Coat · 2017
Tory Burch
- Item
- "Reversed" Coat
- Year
- 2017
- Retail
- $$$
- Spin
- "Romanian folk-inspired"
In 2017, a luxury brand released a coat, marketing it as 'Romanian folk-inspired.' However, the garment's design, particularly its distinctive mirror-work patterns and color framing, bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kutch mirror-work from Gujarat, India. The brand failed to acknowledge or credit the original Indian artisan communities, instead attributing the inspiration to a different cultural heritage, thereby misrepresenting the source of the design.
कच्छ काम
Kutch Mirror-Work
- Region
- Gujarat
- True Value
- Uncredited
- Category
- 07 · Runway Plagiarism
Kutch mirror-work, or "Kachchh kaam," is a vibrant embroidery tradition from the Kutch region of Gujarat, India. Practiced by various communities, it involves intricate stitching that secures tiny shisha (mirror) pieces onto fabric, often in geometric or floral patterns. This craft is deeply embedded in the cultural identity of the region, adorning traditional garments, home decor, and ceremonial items, reflecting the rich artistic heritage of Gujarati artisans.
FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only
The Story
In 2017, Tory Burch launched its 'Reversed' coat, marketed as Romanian folk-inspired. This high-priced garment featured distinct embroidery and mirror-work patterns that bore a striking resemblance to traditional Indian textile arts, despite its European marketing narrative. The coat quickly became a focal point for discussions around cultural appropriation in high fashion.
Kutch Mirror-Work, or कच्छ काम, originates from the Kutch region of Gujarat, India. This intricate embroidery technique involves attaching small pieces of mirrors onto fabric, often surrounded by detailed thread work. Practiced predominantly by women in various communities, it is a significant part of their cultural identity, used to adorn clothing, household items, and ceremonial textiles. The motifs and color palettes often carry symbolic meanings, reflecting the rich heritage and environment of the region.
The appropriation was swiftly called out by various cultural commentators and online communities, who noted the clear visual parallels between the coat's design and Kutch mirror-work. The primary objection centered on the complete lack of credit given to Gujarati artisan groups, with the brand instead attributing the inspiration to Romanian folk traditions. This misattribution sparked widespread public debate regarding intellectual property, cultural ownership, and the ethics of global fashion houses profiting from uncredited traditional designs.
Marketed as Romanian, but the underlying pattern and color framing were lifted from Kutch mirror-work without crediting Gujarati artisan groups.
Reporting forthcoming