ArchiveCase 26 of 200 · Category 02
Category 02Textiles & Jewelry

BaubleBar

Statement Necklaces

STOLEN
The Appropriation

BaubleBar

Item
Statement Necklaces
Retail
₹4,814$58
Spin
"Bold statement jewellery"
Mass-produced alloy, resin imitation

BaubleBar offered 'statement necklaces' that visually mimicked the Kundan style. These pieces were mass-produced using inexpensive alloys and resin, retailing for $58. The brand marketed them as 'bold statement jewellery' without acknowledging or crediting the traditional Indian Kundan technique that inspired their designs. This approach stripped the craft of its cultural context and artisanal value, presenting a cheap imitation as a generic fashion accessory.

The Origin

कुंदन

Kundan

Region
Rajasthan
True Value
₹8,000+$96+
Category
02 · Textiles & Jewelry
Rajput Kundan jewellery craft

Kundan, meaning 'pure gold,' is an intricate gem-setting technique originating in the royal courts of Rajasthan, India. This ancient craft involves meticulously setting uncut gemstones into a framework of highly refined gold foil, creating a distinctive, opulent aesthetic. Traditionally, skilled artisans, often from generations of jewellers, craft these pieces for bridal wear and ceremonial occasions, symbolizing prosperity and heritage. The technique is deeply embedded in Rajput culture, reflecting centuries of artistic refinement and cultural significance.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

BaubleBar, an online accessories retailer, launched a collection of "Statement Necklaces" priced at $58. These pieces were marketed as bold fashion items, featuring what appeared to be a replication of a traditional Indian jewellery setting. The designs closely mimicked the aesthetic of a revered craft, offered at a significantly lower price point than genuine articles.

The Cultural Origin

The original craft, known as Kundan (कुंदन), is a highly intricate form of gem-setting originating from Rajasthan, India, and is deeply rooted in Rajput heritage. This technique involves carefully setting uncut gemstones into a gold foil base, creating elaborate and opulent jewellery pieces. Traditionally, Kundan jewellery is handcrafted by skilled artisans, often passed down through generations, and holds significant cultural and ceremonial value, frequently worn during weddings and important festivals.

The News Story

The appropriation was noted by various craft enthusiasts and cultural commentators who observed the striking resemblance of BaubleBar's designs to Kundan. Objections centered on the brand's use of cheap alloy and resin to imitate the traditional gold and gemstone technique without acknowledging the craft's origin or its artisans. Critics highlighted the disparity between the $58 price tag and the true value of authentic Kundan, which typically starts from ₹8,000, underscoring a lack of cultural attribution and potential devaluation of the original art form.

Editor's Notes

Kundan setting is a Rajput jewellery craft. Replicated in cheap alloy and resin without naming the technique.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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