ArchiveCase 36 of 200 · Category 02
Category 02Textiles & Jewelry

Western wellness brands

Printed Yoga Mats & Leggings

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Western wellness brands

Item
Printed Yoga Mats & Leggings
Retail
₹8,134$98
Spin
"Sacred geometry print"
Motifs printed on yoga gear, uncredited

Western wellness brands have adopted Kalamkari motifs, printing them onto polyester yoga mats and leggings. These designs, marketed as 'sacred geometry,' are stripped of their original context and cultural significance. The brands offer no acknowledgment of the Indian artisans or the ancient craft from which these patterns originate, presenting them as generic spiritual aesthetics rather than a rich heritage.

The Origin

कलमकारी

Kalamkari

True Value
Uncredited
Category
02 · Textiles & Jewelry
Ancient pen-drawn Kalamkari textile art

Kalamkari (कलमकारी) is a traditional Indian art form from Andhra Pradesh, involving freehand drawing and painting on fabric using a 'kalam' (pen) made of bamboo. This intricate craft, often depicting Hindu deities and epic narratives, has been practiced for centuries by skilled artisans. Natural dyes are central to its creation, making each piece a vibrant, storytelling canvas deeply embedded in cultural and religious traditions.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

Western wellness brands launched a line of yoga mats and leggings featuring 'sacred geometry' prints, retailing for $98. These items, made from polyester, were marketed globally, incorporating designs that closely resembled traditional Indian artistry without any attribution to their origins. The products aimed to appeal to a spiritual consumer base, leveraging aesthetic elements perceived as exotic.

The Cultural Origin

The designs appropriated are rooted in Kalamkari (कलमकारी), an ancient textile art from Andhra Pradesh, India. This intricate craft involves freehand drawing and block-printing with natural dyes, traditionally using a 'kalam' (pen) made from bamboo. Kalamkari narratives often depict Hindu deities, epic scenes, or flora and fauna, holding deep cultural and spiritual significance within communities where it is practiced by skilled artisans, often across generations, as a living heritage.

The News Story

The appropriation was called out by various cultural commentators and craft advocates who identified the uncredited use of Kalamkari motifs. Objections centered on the brands' failure to acknowledge the source of the art, effectively divorcing the designs from their rich cultural context and the artisans who create them. Critics highlighted the ethical implications of profiting from traditional knowledge while offering no recognition or compensation to its originators, sparking discussions about cultural intellectual property.

Editor's Notes

Pen-drawn Kalamkari motifs printed onto polyester yoga gear with no acknowledgement.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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