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Category 03The Wellness Hijack

Diptyque / Le Labo

Luxury Incense Sticks

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Diptyque / Le Labo

Item
Luxury Incense Sticks
Retail
₹7,885$95
Spin
"Apothecary scent"
Repackaged as European apothecary scent

Luxury brands like Diptyque and Le Labo have introduced incense sticks, marketing them with an 'apothecary scent' aesthetic. These products, which are essentially Indian agarbatti, are sold at a significant premium, often around $95 per box. This recontextualization detaches the product from its traditional Indian origins and the skilled artisans who hand-roll them, presenting it instead as a high-end, Western-curated home fragrance item, with no acknowledgment of its cultural heritage.

The Origin

अगरबत्ती

Agarbatti

Region
India
True Value
₹50/box$0.60/box
Category
03 · The Wellness Hijack
Hand-rolled Indian Agarbatti incense

Agarbatti, or incense sticks, are an integral part of daily life and spiritual practices across India. Traditionally, these fragrant sticks are hand-rolled by artisans, often women, using a paste of natural ingredients like charcoal, wood powder, essential oils, and aromatic resins. They are burned during prayers, meditation, and to purify spaces, symbolizing offerings to deities and creating a serene atmosphere. This craft supports countless families and is deeply interwoven with cultural and religious rituals.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

Luxury fragrance brands Diptyque and Le Labo began offering incense sticks, marketed as "apothecary scents," at a premium price point of $95 per box. These products, sold globally, presented a stark contrast to the traditional Indian incense, known for its affordability and cultural significance, raising questions about value and origin.

The Cultural Origin

Agarbatti, or Indian incense, is a deeply rooted tradition across India, hand-rolled by skilled artisans, often women, in homes and small workshops. Made from a paste of charcoal, wood powder, essential oils, and aromatic resins, it is integral to daily rituals, prayers, and meditation, symbolizing purification and devotion. A single box typically retails for around ₹50 (less than a dollar), making it accessible to all.

The News Story

The introduction of these high-priced incense sticks by Western luxury brands sparked discussions among cultural commentators and consumers. Critics highlighted the tenfold premium charged for a product fundamentally identical to traditional Indian agarbatti, arguing it was a clear case of cultural appropriation and commodification without proper acknowledgment or equitable compensation for the original craftspeople. The "apothecary scent" branding was seen as an attempt to rebrand a sacred, everyday item into an exclusive luxury commodity.

Editor's Notes

Hand-rolled Indian incense sold at a tenfold premium under European apothecary branding.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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