ArchiveCase 78 of 200 · Category 04
Category 04Spiritual Symbols

H&M / Zara

"Antique Gold" Accessories

STOLEN
The Appropriation

H&M / Zara

Item
"Antique Gold" Accessories
Retail
₹3,735$45
Spin
"Heritage gold-tone jewellery"
Fast fashion 'heritage' accessories

Global retailers H&M and Zara offered 'Antique Gold' accessories, replicating the distinctive Lakshmi-coin and Nakshi designs found in South Indian Temple Jewellery. These items, marketed as 'heritage gold-tone jewellery,' were produced from alloy and sold at a fraction of the true value of the original craft. The brands presented these designs as generic antique styles, detaching them from their sacred origins and the skilled artisans who traditionally create them.

The Origin

मंदिर आभूषण

Temple Jewellery

True Value
₹6,000$72
Category
04 · Spiritual Symbols
Sacred South Indian Temple Jewellery

Temple Jewellery, or 'Mandir Abhushan,' originates from South India, where it adorns deities in temples and is worn by classical dancers and brides. Crafted by skilled artisans, these intricate pieces often feature divine figures, floral motifs, and Lakshmi coins, meticulously fashioned from gold. Each ornament carries deep cultural and spiritual significance, symbolizing prosperity, devotion, and tradition within Hindu rituals and celebrations.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

H&M and Zara, prominent fast-fashion retailers, introduced a line of "Antique Gold" accessories, marketed as "Heritage gold-tone jewellery". These items, priced around $45, featured designs strikingly similar to traditional South Indian temple jewellery, including Lakshmi-coin and Nakshi motifs. The collection was widely available in their global stores and online platforms.

The Cultural Origin

Temple jewellery, known as मंदिर आभूषण (mandir ābhūṣaṇ), originates from South India and holds deep cultural and sacred significance. Traditionally crafted by skilled artisans, these pieces were initially created to adorn deities in temples and later became an integral part of bridal wear and ceremonial attire. The intricate designs, often featuring goddesses, flora, and fauna, are meticulously handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations, with a true value for authentic pieces often exceeding ₹6,000.

The News Story

The appropriation was brought to public attention by cultural commentators and craft enthusiasts who noted the striking resemblance between the fast-fashion accessories and authentic South Indian temple jewellery. Objections centered on the lack of acknowledgment for the original craft and its creators, the commercial exploitation of sacred designs, and the significant disparity in pricing and craftsmanship compared to the original artisans' work. The discourse highlighted concerns about cultural intellectual property and the devaluation of traditional art forms.

Editor's Notes

Lakshmi-coin and Nakshi designs from South Indian temple jewellery replicated in alloy.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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