ArchiveCase 27 of 200 · Category 02
Category 02Textiles & Jewelry

Shein / Forever 21

"Tiered Bell" Earrings

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Shein / Forever 21

Item
"Tiered Bell" Earrings
Retail
₹498$6.00
Spin
"Boho festival earrings"
Renamed and sold as 'Boho'

Fashion retailers Shein and Forever 21 offered "Tiered Bell" earrings, which are clearly Jhumka designs, rebranded with a generic 'Boho festival' aesthetic. This renaming erases the rich cultural heritage and Indian origin of the design. The mass-produced versions are sold at a fraction of the value of authentic, handcrafted Jhumkas, demonstrating a clear disconnect from the traditional craftsmanship and cultural significance of the original item.

The Origin

झुमका

Jhumka

Region
Pan-India
True Value
₹300$3.61
Category
02 · Textiles & Jewelry
Pan-Indian bell-shaped earring

The Jhumka (झुमका) is a distinctive bell-shaped earring, a beloved and ubiquitous jewelry form across India. Crafted by skilled jewelers using various metals and embellishments, its intricate design often features delicate drops or ghungroos (tiny metallic bells) suspended from a dome. These earrings are an integral part of traditional Indian attire, worn by women for centuries to celebrate cultural events, festivals, and daily life, symbolizing grace and femininity.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

Fast-fashion retailers Shein and Forever 21 offered "Tiered Bell" earrings for sale at approximately $6. Marketed as "boho festival earrings," these items were widely available on their e-commerce platforms. The pricing and marketing strategy positioned them as trendy, disposable accessories, detached from any specific cultural heritage.

The Cultural Origin

The original craft, known as Jhumka (झुमका), refers to a distinctive bell-shaped earring form that is ubiquitous across India. These earrings are a staple of traditional Indian jewelry, often featuring intricate filigree work, enamel, or gemstone embellishments. Jhumkas are worn by women of all ages for everyday adornment, festive occasions, and religious ceremonies, symbolizing grace and cultural identity. They are crafted by skilled artisans using techniques passed down through generations, with a fair value for authentic pieces typically around ₹300.

The News Story

The appropriation was primarily called out by social media users, cultural commentators, and independent journalists who highlighted the striking resemblance of the "Tiered Bell" earrings to traditional Indian Jhumkas. Objections centered on the erasure of the craft's origin, the lack of credit given to Indian artisans, and the significant undervaluation of a culturally significant item. Critics pointed out that renaming the earrings to a generic "tiered bell" stripped them of their heritage and reduced them to a mere fashion trend.

Editor's Notes

The Jhumka is one of the most recognisable Indian earring forms. Renamed to erase origin.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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