ArchiveCase 44 of 200 · Category 03
Category 03The Wellness Hijack

Drunk Elephant / Tatcha

"Clean Beauty" Serums

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Drunk Elephant / Tatcha

Item
"Clean Beauty" Serums
Retail
₹6,474$78
Spin
"Clean botanicals"
Repackaged as proprietary 'clean' actives

Luxury skincare brands like Drunk Elephant and Tatcha market serums containing ingredients such as neem, turmeric, amla, and tulsi. These are presented as 'clean botanicals' or proprietary 'actives' within their product lines, often without acknowledging their origins in the Ayurvedic tradition. The brands repackage these ancient Indian ingredients, detaching them from their cultural and historical context and presenting them as new discoveries in Western beauty science.

The Origin

आयुर्वेद

Ayurveda

Region
Pan-India
True Value
Uncredited
Category
03 · The Wellness Hijack
Ancient Indian Ayurvedic knowledge system

Ayurveda, meaning 'the science of life,' is an ancient holistic healing system originating in India thousands of years ago. It emphasizes balance between mind, body, and spirit, utilizing a vast pharmacopeia of herbs like neem, turmeric, amla, and tulsi for their medicinal and cosmetic properties. This traditional knowledge, passed down through generations, is deeply rooted in Indian culture and is practiced by millions for health and well-being.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

Drunk Elephant and Tatcha, prominent 'clean beauty' brands, launched a range of serums marketed for their 'clean botanicals' at a retail price of $78. These products featured ingredients like neem, turmeric, amla, and tulsi, presented as proprietary active components. The marketing emphasized the purity and efficacy of these ingredients without acknowledging their traditional origins.

The Cultural Origin

Ayurveda (आयुर्वेद) is an ancient, holistic system of medicine with origins in the Indian subcontinent, practiced for thousands of years. It emphasizes a balance between mind, body, and spirit, utilizing a vast pharmacopeia of plant-based remedies, dietary practices, and lifestyle recommendations. Ingredients such as neem, turmeric, amla, and tulsi are foundational to Ayurvedic formulations, valued not just for their individual properties but for their synergistic effects within the system, addressing various health and wellness concerns across diverse communities in India.

The News Story

The appropriation was primarily called out by cultural commentators and online communities who recognized the uncredited use of Ayurvedic ingredients. Objections centered on the brands' rebranding of ancient Indian medicinal plants as novel 'clean' actives, effectively stripping them of their cultural and historical context. Critics highlighted the lack of acknowledgment for Ayurveda, arguing that this constituted a form of cultural appropriation and biopiracy, profiting from traditional knowledge without proper attribution or benefit-sharing with the originating communities.

Editor's Notes

Neem, turmeric, amla, and tulsi: rebranded as proprietary 'clean' actives without naming Ayurveda.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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