ArchiveCase 102 of 200 · Category 06
Category 062025–26 Breakthroughs

Ralph Lauren

Bell-Drop Earrings (Paris FW) · 2026

STOLEN
The Appropriation

Ralph Lauren

Item
Bell-Drop Earrings (Paris FW)
Year
2026
Retail
Spin
""Authentic vintage accessories""
Repackaged as 'vintage' with no credit

Ralph Lauren featured 'Bell-Drop Earrings' in their Paris Fall/Winter collection. While instantly recognizable globally as jhumkas, marketing materials and show notes omitted any mention of their Indian origin. The brand presented them as 'authentic vintage accessories,' effectively delinking the design from its rich cultural heritage and the artisans who have perfected this craft over generations.

The Origin

झुमका

Jhumka

Region
Pan-India
True Value
₹250$3.01
Category
06 · 2025–26 Breakthroughs
Pan-Indian bell-drop earring

Jhumkas are traditional bell-shaped earrings, often adorned with intricate filigree work, beads, or pearls. Worn by women across India for centuries, they are a staple in bridal trousseaus and festive attire. The distinctive bell-drop design, which often includes tiny dangling elements, creates a subtle, melodic chime with movement, adding to their allure and cultural significance.

FX reference: 1 USD ≈ ₹83 — for comparison only

The Story

The Backstory

At its Paris Fashion Week show in 2026, Ralph Lauren unveiled a new line of "Authentic vintage accessories," prominently featuring what it termed "Bell-Drop Earrings." These pieces, immediately recognizable to a global audience, were presented without any geographical or cultural attribution in the show notes or marketing materials, despite their clear resemblance to a distinct South Asian jewelry form.

The Cultural Origin

The earrings in question are known as Jhumkas (झुमका), a traditional bell-shaped earring design prevalent across India. These intricate pieces, often crafted by local artisans, are characterized by their distinctive dome or bell shape, frequently adorned with delicate filigree, beads, or pearls. Jhumkas hold significant cultural value, worn for centuries by women during celebrations, weddings, and religious ceremonies, symbolizing femininity, grace, and cultural heritage. Their design and craftsmanship are deeply embedded in regional jewelry traditions.

The News Story

The fashion community and South Asian cultural commentators swiftly identified Ralph Lauren's "Bell-Drop Earrings" as Jhumkas, leading to widespread criticism across social media and fashion blogs. Objections centered on the brand's complete omission of India or South Asia in its marketing, effectively erasing the cultural origin of the design. Critics highlighted this as a clear instance of cultural appropriation, where a distinct traditional craft was rebranded as generic "vintage" without acknowledgment or fair compensation to its originating culture.

Editor's Notes

Show notes and marketing copy scrubbed any mention of India or South Asia. Instantly identified globally as Jhumkas.

Further Reading

Reporting forthcoming

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